The Highs and Lows of the Trouser Waistband

Trousers that make the cut

Wide leg, slim cut, pleats, darts, turn ups, plain hem, zip-fly or button – there is an awful lot to consider in a simple pair of trousers, but at Peregrine & Jude we have been particularly interested in the height of the trouser waistband. While it has gone up and down several times in the past century, it has lately found itself at an all-time low (so to speak). What started as a trend in casualwear has spread into formalwear and, frankly, it’s causing a bit of stir at P&J studio…

Not so long ago Simon Cowell became a byword for comically high trousers, acceptable in the 80s but at odds with current trends.  True, in more recent years the fashion has tended towards a lower rise, with barely enough room for a small zip-fly and button, but was that such a good thing? As the rise got shorter so too the leg slimmed to redress the length-width proportions, resulting in the skinniest of skinny jeans and a look sported by many a young talent-show hopeful. No wonder Simon’s trousers looked high by comparison.

Now, if we may be permitted to do so, we would like to defend the higher waistline, the taller rise, the longer fly front. Let’s face it, in most cases it’s pretty flattering. It not only lengthens the leg, but gives the impression of the chest being built-up, rather than the lanky torso dragging down. The shorter the difference between the inside and outside leg measurements (the rise), the shorter ones legs can appear in proportion to the rest of the body.

While most of the blame lies with the cut of the trousers , we must also consider how we wear them. Some men have become accustomed to subconsciously pushing down their trousers in a slouched manner reminiscent of the 90s skater boys, then yanking them up as soon as they notice what they have done (often in public). Sound familiar? If you find that you are always hoicking up your suit trousers to bring them to the right height, why not try a pair of braces (we’re partial to green and white spots!) or a sleek leather belt for more modern look.

Mind the Shirt Gap

So what does all of this have to do with waistcoats? As the low-rise trend shifts into formalwear, suit trousers are in danger of parting company with the generous overlap of the suit jacket as the chasm of shirt emerges between the two. Furthermore, consider one of the cardinal rules of a well-fitted formal waistcoat: NO SHIRT GAP. The hem should overlap the trouser waistband, preventing the the oh-so-unsightly glimpse of a white shirt between waistcoat and trouser. The lower the waistband, the longer the waistcoat must be to compensate. And it’s not just the waistcoat which has been undergoing revisions in reaction to this lower cut trouser waistband. Cummerbunds which were once worn high up round the natural waist, cinching in the figure, are now slung low at hip-height. At Peregrine & Jude we have been adapting our patterns to suit this new style.

*Of course, the same does not apply to an everyday waistcoat, worn with a more casual style of trousers. Indeed, we think that the waistcoat hem skimming the top of the waistband can lend the look a nice relaxed vibe.*

How do you wear yours?

When it comes to creating bespoke waistcoats and cummerbunds, Peregrine & Jude will see you right. We will always take into account such other elements as the height of your trousers, the style of your jacket or coat and the type of neckwear you would like to wear with it. We can advise on which cuts would work best for you, and fit everything around your current wardrobe as well. For our made-to-measure service we have a handy size guide to make sure that you get the correct measurements to us, including a note about the height of your trouser waistband.

As always, if you need any further information, don’t hesitate to contact us and we will be happy to help.